How to master a cut throat razor shave with The Bluebeards Revenge
Giving your customer that perfect shave is no easy task, especially when dealing with the likes of tough stubble. Slow and steady is what wins the race, and preparation is of the utmost importance when it comes to achieving optimum results with your wet shave.
Simon Bethel, expert educator at the Great British Barbering Academy (GBBA), has teamed up with The Bluebeards Revenge to show you how to perform that super smooth cut throat shave.
Before even thinking about reaching for the razor, you’ll need to put on your gloves – it’s important to put the health and safety of your customers first and to show them that they are in capable hands. It is paramount for barbers to take every precaution to protect ourselves and our clients from any blood-borne diseases or infections and wearing gloves dramatically reduces the risk of cross-infection. If you learn the art of shaving with gloves on it will soon become second nature.
Wear tight fitting gloves as they are much better for feel and sensation.
Holding the Razor
1. Hold the cut throat with your dominant hand – the other hand is used to stretch the skin
2. Your thumb should be on the underside
3. Your index, middle and ring finger should be on the top
4. The handle should be between your ring and little finger
One Man – One Blade
It is so important to always use one blade per client regardless of how much or how little you use the blade. Always discard the finished blade after use. This is not only for your client’s health and hygiene but also this is the law. If you find the blades you use are expensive, change to a normal open razor that takes everyday blades.
You must always dispose of your blades in a properly labelled, yellow sharps box and disinfect the razor after use. It is good practice to put your new blade on in front of your client so they too can be confident and assured that you are following good health and safety.
A barber’s chair with a reclining back is needed to ensure your client is positioned correctly for maximum comfort to yourself and your client. Try not to lean over as this can cause back ache; move around the chair where possible. Position your tools for ease of use to make sure you don’t overstretch.
This is a crucial part of any service. No one knows their skin and face better then your client themselves so talk to them, ask them questions and let them tell you about their shaving routine before you start the service.
Look at the beard growth patterns, skin disorders, density of facial hair, piercings and skin sensitivity. Take a photo in your mind as you will have to shave with the hair growth for the first shave. Also look for contraindications which may limit you doing the service.
Step by Step
1. Gown up and use two towels on the neck
2. Adjust the chair height as needed and recline the back
3. If required, reduce the beard length prior to the shave
4. Place the first hot towel onto the face and massage the skin under the towel. This will soften the skin, lift the facial hair, open the pores and relax the client
5. Don’t EVER let the towels get cold on your client’s face. Replace as often as necessary
6. When the hot towels are on your client, use this time to prepare your razor
7. Massage a pre shave oil in the area you will be shaving - this will protect your client’s skin from the razor
8. Using a shaving brush and shaving cream, lather the face thoroughly – this will help to soften the hair and lubricate the skin ensuring a comfortable, close shave
9. Use circular movements to help lift the stubble
10. The first shave is WITH the grain. Hold the razor in your dominant hand and use your other hand to stretch the skin as tight as you can to reduce the risk of cuts
11. Hold the razor at a 30° angle to the skin and use gentle pressure and even strokes
12. Once you have completed the shave, rinse, re-lather and complete the second shave. This time shave AGAINST the grain
13. Only perform a third shave if required but generally you will not need to
14. Massaging a post shave balm into the skin after the shave will help to nourish and moisturise
15. Place a moist, cold towel on the face to close the pores - You can place towels in the fridge to cool. If you are completing a facial massage service after the shave, avoid using cold towels as these will help to close the pores
PRE SHAVE OIL: Helps to protect the skin from the razor blade therefore reducing the chance of a rash.
SHAVING CREAM: Creates a lather which helps to soften the stubble and lubricates the skin. This helps the razor glide over the skin and leaves the skin feeling smooth.
POST SHAVE BALM: Helps to nourish the skin and replenish the moisture that has been lost during shaving.
The Bluebeards Revenge Barber Bundle Kit includes all of the above products plus a Doubloon Bristle Shaving Brush, a Shaving/Hand Towel and a Cut–Throat Shavette Razor. The products are also available to buy separately.
Cooling Moisturiser: Helps soothe the skin post shave and calm any skin irritation.
LEARN THE ART OF WET SHAVING
The Bluebeards Revenge has teamed up with the GBBA to offer a one-day shave course designed to equip you to perform fantastic wet shaves, and maintain your competitive edge in the industry. Available in selected Salon Services stores, click here to book your The Bluebeards Revenge Shave Day course today.